Friday, May 30, 2008

Ko-ism

Momofuku Ko. I don't need to write another piece on the food, all that's written about David Chang's three-month old establishment is true. It is very good. GO!

First you will need to successfully make a reservation through the infamously impossible online booking system, after which, exactly six days later, you and your dinner party will embark on a hedonistic culinary journey. There are only two seatings on any given evening, 12 diners per round, with a growing number of hungry foodies and willing spenders in NYC (and beyond)… you do the math.

Ended up at Momofuku Ko by chance. I peruse the internet for the latest on wining and dining on a regular basis. Recently I’ve been reading more and more about the aforementioned establishment, the amazing food, as well as its insane reservation system. So never thought that I would get in, I tried for several days just to see if the rumors are true… which it was. When I was just about to give up – lo and behold – I scored two seats at Ko this past Sunday– I got a reservation within about a week.

A skeptic by nature, I doubted the hype. Days after the meal, as I quickly jotted down a note to Ko-thario (my dinner appointment was for the following night, and I had the same dilemma of finding someone to go with) about my experience – in my mind I thought, the food was okay, it didn’t live up to the glowing reviews. But reflecting further, I made lists of the courses I enjoyed and the ones I didn’t care for, most of the dishes were on the first list; Ko is everything they said it would be and more. Dishes I would return for are the English muffin amuse, fluke, pea soup (hitting my soft spot with the crawfish), smoked egg (mmm caviar), lasagna (on par with Babbo), foie gras (frozen and grated), and short ribs. I didn’t care for the kimchi consommé which was too salty for my taste, and the rhubarb was very tart. The other high quality courses were pleasing as well, though not particularly noteworthy.

We had arrived on time, the table wasn’t ready – we were offered each a glass of rosé as we waited by the entrance. It gave me a chance to absorb the atmosphere, to prepare myself for the meal, and enjoy the Freddy Johnston and Led Zeppelin playing softly from the speakers. Facing the inside of the restaurant, the kitchen is to the right and the row of counter seats are straight ahead. There is barely enough space for the hostess to pass behind the stools, during the course of an evening, the staff must come across several nudges/jabs from the customer’s elbows. Peter Serpico is the chef standing closest to the door. He oversaw the preparation and plating of the food in the kitchen, as well as absorbed the patrons’ reaction to the food (note, absorbing, not actively collecting). I didn't take pictures (with the intimacy of the place, and the chef watching close by, I didn't feel that it was appropriate).

While it was definitely entertaining to sit in front of the open kitchen, watching the chefs meticulously plate our food, it was hot. The essence of the meal remained on our clothing for the remaining of the night. The hostess who sat us is also the server who fills our glass for the wine/ sake/ beer pairing. She had advised that pairing can be done on a per course basis, but warned that if we intend on pairing half or more of the dishes, the meal pairing would be a better deal. They were well chosen accompaniments to the ingredients on each dish on our plate. We were glad that these were not full glasses, by the time we were served the foie course, we were happy, liquored up, and ready to call it a night. There were variations between the dishes presented to the men and women. Deep fried short ribs to the gentlemen, while the lady received chicken poulard – they were both savory meat courses. The deep fried short ribs was especially memorable, the crispy outside was delicious while the rest of the short rib simply melted in my mouth.

Located in East Village, Ko’s clientele were hip and refined, and mostly under forty. This is the kind of place you ride the subway to, with easy access to the rest of NYC nightlife for a post-dinner rendezvous. The food deserves your undivided attention; it’s not a date place, unless your date is also a foodie. Two hours plus later, we left with a smile on our face that lingered for the rest of the night.

Momofuku Ko
163 First Ave.,
New York, NY 10003
nr. 10th St.
no phone

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